Scuba Diving in Cozumel

The main reason we went to Cozumel was for scuba diving. Four of us are scuba divers and I had never dove in Mexico. Cozumel is one of the best places to dive in the Caribbean, and it’s a quick two-and-a-half-hour direct flight from Austin.

We did 3 days and 8 dives with Dive with Martin. Our resort has its own dive company, but we opted for a smaller company that offered semi-private boats. The semi-private boat limit is 6 people but we typically had 4 people max. Our resort’s boat had 8+ divers. For an additional fee, the company picked us up from our resort’s pier, so we didn’t have to take a taxi to the marina every day. The company also had free gear rental.

The diving was good! We saw typical Caribbean creatures like lobster, green moray eels, nurse sharks, green turtles, loggerhead turtles, yellow stingrays, and starfish. We were excited to see toadfish and my favorite, multiple nudibranchs!

Here’s a quick breakdown of our fees:

• 2-tank dives: $112
• Marine park fee: $7 daily
• Wetsuit rental: $10 daily
• Hotel dock fee: $3.50 daily

Cenote Diving

One bucket list thing for the trip was visiting and diving a cenote. We took the ferry to Playa del Carmen and the company – Xpu Ha Divers – drove us south to the cenotes. We paid for a cenote upgrade and visited Eden and Chikin-Ha. Typically, the dive company will give their recommendations.

Our dive guide shared that divers typically don’t enjoy their first cenote dives, which was the experience for me. It was enjoyable at times, like seeing the light rays, but at other times, it was uncomfortable and scary. Imagine diving in a dark tunnel! At this point, it was a one-and-done diving experience, but I’m glad we got to do it!

If you’re looking to dive a cenote, here are some additional ones to try:

• Dos Ojos
• Calavera Cenote
• Taj Mahal
• The Pit
• Chichen Itza
• Angelita
• Dream Gate

Whale Shark Tour

Another excursion we did was a whale shark tour. Again we took the ferry to Playa del Carmen and took a shuttle north (1 hour) to Cancun. Then we took a boat about 45 minutes out, past Isla Mujeres. There was a large radius where the whale sharks, about 20-30 feet long, were feeding. There were many boats out there but 2 snorkelers and 1 guide per boat were allowed in the water at a time.

While the experience is slightly chaotic – whale sharks don’t stay still and you have to move fast – but for a few seconds, the experience is magical. The whale sharks were so majestic! I’m not sure if I’ll ever see a whale shark while diving (hopefully one day!), so this somewhat manufactured experience was cool.

Resort Life

This was my first experience at Iberostar, a global hotel chain. We picked this all-inclusive resort because it was ideal for divers and had amenities, like a beachfront and a large pool, for non-divers. For us divers, we usually did a 2-tank morning trip from 7:45 – 11 am. Then we checked in when we returned for lunch, beach time, pool drinks, and games organized by the hotel.

The resort provides free daily use of snorkel gear, catamarans, and other water sports equipment for an hour (though there are additional fees like a Marine Park Fee). The pier is a great place to snorkel and see creatures.

Downtown Cozumel was about a 20-minute cab ride and some of us ventured out for souvenir shopping. Our cenote and whale shark excursions started and ended with being downtown, so we used that trip to shop. Otherwise, we spent all of our time at the resort.

The resort hosts different games and shows every night to entertain guests. The shows are music-themed with performers, and they also host a silent disco night and karaoke night. Alberto’s is the only restaurant/bar in walking distance from the resort and it can be accessed by the beachfront. They sometimes have live music.

Iberostar Cozumel was a spacious resort with multiple dining options, so I didn’t get tired of it. There was variety and I could typically find something tasty on the buffet or menu. They have breakfast, lunch, and dinner buffet options, and also three specialty dinner options (first come, first serve) offering Mexican, Asian, and barbecue cuisine. There’s also a grill by the pool that serves burgers, hot dogs, and fries all afternoon, so you can typically find food anywhere in the daytime. 

Don’t forget the bars. The one in the main lobby is open all day (where to get coffee in the morning too) while the beachfront bar and pool bar are open mid-morning. The specialty restaurants also have their own bars.

All in all, we enjoyed the property and offerings and would visit other properties by the brand.

Things to Bring to a Beach Resort

We were making this list throughout the week, so I thought I’d share for your next trip (and leave a reminder for myself).

• Towel clips – These are for clipping your towel to your beach chair so it doesn’t blow away
• Reusable cup – There are refillable water stations, so this is great for staying hydrated
• $1 bills – While it’s all-inclusive, tipping bartenders and servers is nice
• Activated charcoal pills – Sickness prevention if you’ll be drinking or for minor stomach issues
• Stomach medicine – If you get sick when you travel, you’ll want this
• Motion sickness medicine – Bring this if you’ll be on a boat
• Bug spray – Heavy rain in Mexico brought TERRIBLE mosquitos during our trip, so we used this multiple times a day. Buying a spray can here will set you back about $17
• Tote bag – For carrying all your things from your room to the pool/beach
• Playing cards – Always good to have to cure boredom

Beach resort trip with friends – I highly recommend it! I’m so glad we got to make these memories.

P.S. See more diving trips here.

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I’m basking in the memories of our Mexico City trip. Can you tell? A few weeks after returning, there was a great flight sale to Mexico City within the next year and I almost pushed book. We had a packed trip but there were still places to see and restaurants to try. There’s a reason why travel bloggers visit and write extensively about Mexico City. Read on and you’ll learn why.

Why Visit Mexico City?

You don’t know Mexico. From the depth of its culture to the variety in its country, Mexico is a vibrant place with much to offer, with Mexico City being its crown jewel. You may have visited Cancun, Tulum, Puerto Vallarta, or Cozumel, but beyond a picturesque beachfront, Mexico City is a place that will charm you and open the door to give you a taste of what the country is all about. The city entices you to walk its neighborhoods, feel the sun at plazas and markets, and go beyond the few Mexican dishes you may have tried. While the touristy destinations in Mexico will bring you relaxation, a nice tan, and plenty of cold drinks, Mexico City reminds us that discovering somewhere we’re not quite sure about is how we open our eyes to adventure.

Mexico City has a little bit of everything I like in a trip. The abundance of cultural experiences, outdoor activities, history, and incredible food will easily convince you’re right where you’re supposed to be.

Quick Tips

• Airport: Mexico City International Airport; officially Aeropuerto Internacional Benito Juarez; MEX
• Currency: Pesos, Mex$
• Visa: unnecessary if you have a passport from United States of America, Canada, Japan, United Kingdom or Schengen area (European Union)
• Vaccinations: none required
• Language: Spanish. You’ll find English-speaking people at hotels, well-known restaurants, and tourist sights, but it would be best to know a few phrases to help you out. (see the bottom of this post)

Best Time to Visit Mexico City

Springtime – March through May – is the best time to visit Mexico City and is also the busiest time for tourism. The summer and fall months – June through November – have a little more rain. The lowest temperatures are around winter – December to February – with highs in the 70s and lows in the 40s.

We visited the last weekend of May and it was a low of 55 degrees F and high of 85 degrees F. Walking around, it got a bit warm, especially at Teotihuacan, but it wasn’t unbearable. Bring a light jacket for cool weather and possible rain.

How Long Should I Spend in Mexico City?

If you’re seeing the city at a very quick pace, you need four days, which we did. I would have been happier with two or three more days and could have easily filled my time in Mexico City. So, at minimum four days and preferably a week.

Getting Around Mexico City

You can get around Mexico City by Uber, bus, metro, or taxi. Metro or bus will be cheapest while Uber is the easiest. Our Uber rides ranged from $2-6.

What to Wear in Mexico City

It’s always good to try to blend in when traveling. Locals seemed to wear pants instead of short dresses and shorts. In fact, many seemed sensitive to cool weather and were wearing big jackets when it would get to a high of 85 degrees! Of course, colorful clothing and flashy jewelry will make you stand out more. For one of our tours, they suggested we wear closed-toe shoes, pants, and no tank tops. The most important thing is to dress for the weather. Layers are good for the cool mornings and nights.

Is Mexico City Safe?

There was never a time I felt unsafe while in Mexico City. We used Uber to get around so we didn’t look lost much and had no trouble communicating where we were going. There seemed to be police everywhere. A good rule of thumb to staying safe is not staying out too late, at least not in questionable neighborhoods, or wandering into dark alleys. Avoid these neighborhoods. If you’re taking public transportation or wandering crowded markets, watch your belongings. [See other travel safety tips here.]

How to Stay Healthy in Mexico City

You can’t drink from the tap. Always drink bottled water and use it to brush your teeth. Avoid water in your mouth in the shower. This post has lots of good pointers also. Stay hydrated.

We both got food poisoning on our last day in Mexico City. Thankfully our travel timing allowed us to spend a few hours recovering in our hotel room instead of in transit back home. It seemed like it could have been much worse, but it did make us miss a few hours of fun we had planned and after the initial torture, mild discomfort continued for a few days. We were fairly cautious and didn’t eat anywhere sketchy, so I’m assuming it was bad cheese, crema, or salsa made from unwashed or washed under tap water vegetables. Most restaurants are aware of safe practices. Watch food preparation and question how long something has been sitting out, especially dairy products.

While there are drugstores available, it’s a good idea to pack some medicine for immediate relief! Get over-the-counter tablets or a travel-focused doctor can provide a prescription before you travel.

Mexico City Neighborhoods

There are plenty of cool neighborhoods in Mexico City to explore and stay.

• Centro – the center of the city, hustle and bustle
• Condesa – hip, cool
• Coyoacán – fashionable, hippies, liberals
• Hipodromo – hippies, quiet
• Navarte – quiet, residential
• Roma Norte – hip, cool
• Zona Rosa – historic gay neighborhood, parties

Where to Stay in Mexico City

La Condesa and Roma Norte are good, central neighborhoods to stay in.

Our hotel, Room Mate Valentina, was one of the least expensive I found and it was around $80 per night. We also found out in the wee hours of the morning that it also happened to be in a neighborhood with a vibrant nightlife (Zona Rosa). Oops! Thankfully the partying only happened on Friday night and the hotel had earplugs available for the rest of the weekend, though they weren’t needed. It was a wonderful hotel otherwise with a spacious and remodeled room, central location, kind staff, and convenience stores next door.

Here are some other hotels I considered:

• Busue Hotel $$$
• Chaya B&B Boutique $$
• Downtown (hostel) $$
• El Patio 77 $$
• Gran Hotel Ciudad de Mexico $$$
• Hotel Carlota $$$
• Hotel Condesa $$$
• Hotel NH $$
• Las Alcobas $$$
• Marquis Reforma Hotel $$$
  
• Nima Local House $$$

Airbnb is a great choice in Mexico City. The average nightly rate is $40 and there are lots of cute, bright, and modern places.

Where to Play in Mexico City

Teotihuacan and Museo Frida Kahlo are only two of the many options of activities in Mexico City. Take a look at this list to plan your schedule.

Where to Eat in Mexico City

I’ve got everything you need to know about eating and drinking in Mexico City right here! Get ready to try street tacos.

Spanish Phrases to Know

• Hola – hello
• Por favor – please
• Gracias – thank you
• Adios – goodbye
• Disculpe – excuse me
• Con permiso – with permission
• Buenos Dias – good morning
• Buenos Tardes – good afternoon
• Buenos Noches – good night
• Lo siento, pero no hablo Espanol – I’m sorry, but I don’t speak Spanish

Conclusion

As I was looking forward to my trip I had a few people tell me to not get kidnapped and asked if it was safe to visit. While I know there could be incidences anywhere you travel, I hope history or rumors don’t deter you from booking a trip to this beautiful city. On the other side, I talked to many more people who were excited for me to discover the city they fell in love with on their trip. I’ve become one of those people upon my return and I look forward to the day I visit Mexico City again. I know there are still neighborhoods to wander and tacos to eat!

I hope this travel guide prepares you well for a fun trip to Mexico City!

Check out this quick video from our trip:

Here are all my Mexico City posts for more in-depth information:

• Exploring Teotihuacan in Mexico City
• Museo Frida Kahlo in Mexico City
• Eating at Pujol and Quintonil in Mexico City
• Best Things to Do in Mexico City
• Eating and Drinking in Mexico City

Comments/insights about your trip or questions about something I’m missing? Please let me know below!

Have you been to Mexico? Where in Mexico should I visit next?

P.S. Slowly but surely I’m traveling my way to South America. So far, I’ve explored Belize, Honduras, and Costa Rica.

Keep up with my travel posts and adventures. You can find me on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, and Bloglovin’. You can also subscribe to the exclusive email list.

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When I think back on our Mexico City trip, most of my memories revolve around food! (You’re not surprised, are you? ) From multi-course meals at world-renowned restaurants to tacos on the sidewalk, Mexico City is rich with options and delicious bites. If you’re a foodie, you will be thrilled with what you find in Mexico City and it’s sure to evolve your thinking about Mexican food.

Here’s a huge guide to eating and drinking in Mexico City. I’ll explain a few of the dishes and give more information about where to enjoy craft beer and the best restaurants! Hopefully, all the food will make you feel like this:

Tacos make me happy!

Tostada

What to Eat and Drink in Mexico City

For me, eating in Mexico City was a playground. There was always something new to try, and even if I had tasted it before, Mexico City’s version seemed so much richer. There are only a few of the many things you’ll taste!

• Taco – We’ll start off easy. You’ll recognize this dish and it is plentiful everywhere! Be sure to try beef tongue and al pastor.
• Torta – Another popular dish, this is a sandwich (like a sub) with similar taco ingredients inside. You could get it pressed.
• Tostada – This is an open-faced taco but the taco is firm like a tortilla chip. It usually comes with melted cheese on top. Look for a “volcano” tostada.
• Quesadilla – This will likely be closed like an empanada and could be fried.
• Caldo de Camarón – shrimp soup
• Churros – Fried dough with cinnamon and sugar? Yes. Make sure you dip it in chocolate.
• Horchata – One of my favorite drinks, horchata is made with rice milk and cinnamon.
• Mezcal – This is a distilled liquor made from agave. It is usually consumed straight (not in cocktails) and has a smoky flavor. For reference, tequila is made from only blue agave.
• Agua Fresca – Fresh fruit juice and pulp in cold water is a refreshing drink.
• Pastries – There are TONS of different kinds of pastries. Look for signs that say panadería or pastelería.
• Insects – Chapulines (grasshoppers), gusanos (maguey worms), escamoles (ant larvae), and alacránes (scorpions) are a few of the insects you can try in Mexico City.

Grasshoppers!

Quesadilla – tortilla stuffed, sealed, and fried! Cheese on top instead of inside.

Volcano Tostada

Craft Beer in Mexico City

You may know the big brands – Tecate, Modelo, Dos Equis, and Corona – but did you know craft breweries are booming in Mexico City? You’ll likely find more bottles and cans than drafts because of a local bias about cleanliness but they do exist!

Where to Drink Craft Beer:

• El Depósito
• Jardín Chapultepec
• Centenario 107
• El Bebian
• Beer Bros

El Bebian inside MercadoRoma

Mexico City Craft Breweries to Visit:

• Escollo
• Crisanta
• Cerveceria Cru Cru
• La Graciela – Taller de Cerveza
• Hop The Beer Experience

Mexico City Food Tour

A great way to try a bunch of restaurants, get to know the city, and meet other travelers is taking a food tour. We loved ours with Eat Mexico! We did the Navarte at Night tour where we enjoyed several establishments for food and drink and enjoyed a craft beer bar, a mezcal tasting, and street food. I hear great things about their other tours too and would have done them if I had the time!

I also considered Club Tengo Hambre for a food tour.

Gringa taco from El Vilsito

Mexico City Restaurant Recommendations

Below are some restaurant recommendations. Get ready for an abundance of pastries and tacos. Plan out your eating (if you’re a type-a planner like me) or walk around and find a busy taco stand. Also, check out markets (mercados) for cheaper food options.

Pastries

Mexico City is carb heaven and a gluten nightmare. So good and they’re everywhere! You can easily walk down the street, see pastries in the window and locals pulling goods on trays, and know you’re in the right place. If you try one pastry, I hope it’s a churro!

• Ballarò
• Chiquitito
• El Moro
• La Otilia
• Maque
• Panaderia Rosetta

Casual Breakfast, Lunch, or Dinner

I’ll be honest, most of these are taquerias. Because why are you not eating tacos all the time while in Mexico City?? (Ok, some of these places do have things besides tacos.)

• Azul
• ChilaKillers
• El Huequito
• El Vilsito – Mechanic shop by day, taco shop by night
• La Casa de Toño
• Lardo
• Tacos Tony – best beef tongue taco!
• Taqueria Los Cocuyos
• Taqueria Orinoco

Taqueria Orinoco

El Vislito

Tacos Tony

Food Halls and Food Markets

• Mercado del Carmen
• Mercado de Coyoacán – look for the fried quesadillas at a stall with yellow signs
• MercadoRoma or MercadoRoma Coyoacán – two locations for a modern food hall

MercadoRoma

La Otilia, one location located in MercadoRoma

Tacos at Mercado de Coyoacán

Formal Lunch or Dinner

Some of the world’s best and Latin America’s best restaurants are located in Mexico City. You will likely need to make a reservation for these options.

• Pujol – read about our experience here
• Quintonil – read about our experience here
• Biko
• Contramar
• Dulce Patria
• Kaah Siis
• La Buena Barra
• La Docena
• Maximo Bistrot
• Nicos
• Puntarena
• Rosetta
• Sud 777
• Yuban

Pujol

Cocktails/Bars

• Bosforo
• Felina Bar
• Gin Gin
• Jules Basement
• Miralto
• Vinamore – wine bar
• Xaman – speakeasy!

Bandera! Represents the Mexican flag: lime juice, tequila, tomato juice

I hope this guide helps you enjoy the cuisine in Mexico City! Happy eating!

Have a recommendation I missed? Leave it in a comment below!

P.S. Check out all my Mexico City posts here!

Keep up with my travel posts and adventures. You can find me on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, and Bloglovin’. You can also subscribe to the exclusive email list.

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Wait…you didn’t come to Mexico City only to eat? Ok, you’ll need some activity recommendations to walk off the tacos and pastries.

Mexico City, despite the traffic, is a charming place to discover. With its curious neighborhoods, vibrant culture, a mix of old and new, and historic sights, you’ll be dazzled by the places to visit. This is a long list of recommendations but as always, do what you enjoy and are interested in, not only what people say you should see.

Mexico City Museums

Art, history, architecture – Mexico City’s got a museum for it!

Museo Nacional de Antropologia

As the largest and most visited museum in Mexico, the Museo Nacional de Antropologia holds an incredible number of archeological artifacts from Mexico’s long history. You can easily spend hours here walking through the museum.

Museo Frida Kahlo

The Frida Kahlo Museum is at her house Casa Azul. The museum celebrates her life and includes interesting artifacts. See all the details here.

Museo del Palacio de Bellas Artes

This venue hosts performing art shows and a museum. When you visit, be sure to look at the murals of Rufino Tamayo, Diego Rivera, and David Alfaro Siqueiros. For a good view, visit the outdoor café terrace at the Sears building across the street.

Museo de Arte Moderno

The modern art museum exhibits a large collection of national and international artists.

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Museo Soumaya

While the building’s architecture is a big draw, this free art museum features art by Salvador Dali, Auguste Rodin, and more.

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Casa Luis Barragán

The former house of architect Luis Barragán is now a museum featuring his work, one of the most influential representations of modern Mexican architecture. It also includes his collection of art by Mexican artists.

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Museo Tamayo

This contemporary art museum features the art and art collection of Mexican artist Rufino Tamayo.

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Museo Anahuacalli

This museum houses more than 50,000 pieces artist Diego Rivera collected.

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Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo

Can’t get enough of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera? Their second home features the studios of both of them in addition to architect Juan O’Gorman.

Sights to See in Mexico City 

Lots of history, impressive structures, and historic buildings to explore in Mexico City.

Teotihuacan

This is an important archeological site. See details and photos from our visit here.

Templo Mayor

Located near the Zócalo, Templo Mayor features the ruins of the Aztec’s main city Tenochtitlan.

Biblioteca Vasconcelos

This library is known for its shelves upon shelves. Peek in to marvel at this!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BapiQJ0jA0w/?taken-by=bibliotecavasconcelos

Monumento a la Independencia / El Ángel / Angel of Independence

Located in a roundabout on the Paseo de La Reforma, this statue commemorates Mexico’s War of Independence from Spain. It’s a popular photo spot for wedding parties and quinceañeras.

Castillo de Chapultepec / Chapultepec Castle

Castillo de Chapultepec is the only royal castle in the Americas and served as a residence. Visit for great views of the city and a look at the impressive estate.

Palacio de Correos de Mexico

Located in the historic center and across from the Palacio de Bellas Artes, this post office might just be the prettiest ever seen!

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Plaza de la Constitución or Zócalo

This is the main square is the historic center. The buildings around the square include the Metropolitan Cathedral, National Palace, Templo Mayor, and numerous government buildings. You’ll likely see a market on the weekends and impromptu cultural dances featuring traditional headdresses and outfits.

Paseo de La Reforma

While it is not technically something you go to see, this diagonal road is one you’ll likely travel on. A number of monuments sit on this road, including El Ángel.

Floating Gardens of Xochimilco

A popular tourist spot, these colorful boats will take you along a walled canal while encountering boats with mariachi bands and vendors selling food and drink.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BkLTrCahiFz/?tagged=xochimilco

Mexico City Shopping

Take the bright colors of Mexican culture home with you.

La Ciudadela

This market is known for the abundance of traditional Mexican goods such as woven blankets, bags, clothing, and other trinkets.

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Mercado de Coyoacán

This market is smaller than La Ciudadela but has a lot of food stalls. Look for the fried quesadillas at a stall with yellow signs.

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La Merced

This market is the largest but it’s also a little chaotic. Go with a guide (Eat Mexico does one) or brave the crowds.

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Mexico City Shows

To get a feel for the culture and mingle with the locals, here are some shows you should consider.

Lucha Libre

Want to see professional Mexican wrestling? Visit Arena México for the Lucha Libre matches. (When it’s not hosting wrestling, Arena México is the venue for touring concerts and shows.)

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bjv9TklA6Vl/?tagged=arenam%C3%A9xico

Ballet Folklórico de México

To discover more about Mexican culture, the Mexican folkloric ballet ensemble will wow you with talent and colors.

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Mexico City Tours

I highly recommend a food tour in Mexico City. Check out Eat Mexico‘s numerous options.

If you enjoy hop on/hop off buses, Turibus will take care of you. This could be a cheaper option than a taxi or rideshare if you’re planning on making quick stops to the above sights!

Conclusion

I hope this gives you a good idea of what you can see and explore in Mexico City. There are a lot of historical sights and a significant amount of art. Have fun discovering Mexico City. I know I did!

P.S. Check out all my Mexico City posts here.

Keep up with my travel posts and adventures. You can find me on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, and Bloglovin’. You can also subscribe to the exclusive email list.

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We travel for good food. One of the reasons for our trip to Mexico City was the food and we were not disappointed! We knew we would enjoy many casual restaurants and street food, but I also made reservations at Pujol and Quintonil, which are both on the World’s Best 50 Restaurants list, ranked 20 and 22 respectively as of the 2017 list.

As I’ve noted here before, I enjoy a wide range of restaurants and I’m always curious about what makes a highly ranked and/or award-winning restaurant worth visiting. It’s about the quality of the ingredients, the creativity of the chefs, the beauty of the environment, the preciseness of the service, and how everything ties together for an unforgettable experience.

Our meals at Pujol and Quintonil did give us unforgettable experiences, though not quite in the ways we thought we would have. Read on for more about what we ate!

Pujol

We ate at Pujol for our first dinner in Mexico City. Since it was the first dinner of our trip and we had watched the Chef’s Table episode again right before the trip, we were low-key thrilled about our impending experience.

We were led to a table under the skylight and from my seat, I could see into the kitchen, the bar, and much of the restaurant. I liked that the restaurant was bright and open. They moved to the current restaurant location in 2017.

Pujol only offers a tasting menu, and I like that they present their menu, dated and with a wax seal like it’s a personal letter. They also offer a wine pairing option. One thing I didn’t like was the choices on the tasting menu. Four of the six courses had about three to four choices. It was hard to see all the enticing dishes and only be able to pick one. Also, I enjoy tasting menus because the chefs usually pick dishes and ingredients that I wouldn’t normally be familiar with, but I understand the ability to pick what protein or ingredients you prefer.

Alas, we game-planned and chose different dishes to try more food. Then the tasting part of the adventure began! They timed everything well and adjusted to how fast/slow guests were finishing their plates.

Course 1: We started with street snacks. I was very excited about the smoked baby carrot with chicatana ant mayonnaise in a gourd.

Course 2: Sea bass, cacahuatzintle juice, celery.

Course 2: Octopus, habanero ink, ayocote, vercruzana sauce. Of course, the octopus was cooked perfectly!

Course 3: Softshell crab, cucumber, daiko, shiso. These came with tortillas to make softshell crab tacos.

Course 3: Charred eggplant tamal, chard. This dish was another favorite. Underneath the chard leaf is the purple tamal, the best one I’ve ever had.

Course 4: Duck, black recado, nance, Ixil onions. This dish’s flavors were incredible!

Course 4: Ox tongue, barley, purslane, cactus. This dish was the least impressive of the dinner. While the meat was tender, all the flavors of the dish were very subtle.

I didn’t get any photos of the tortillas that came with multiple dishes but they were very noteworthy. In the Chef’s Table episode, one person notes that it was one of the best things he ate that year. I could see how that could be. You might think it’s just a tortilla. For someone who prefers flour tortillas, I would choose corn tortillas if they tasted like these every time. I never thought corn tortillas could taste this good!

Course 5: Mole madre 1591 days, mole nuevo. The mole is as good as they say. They take their previous day’s mole and add to it, so day by day, the mole madre is getting older. (See the story and recipe here.) There is incredible depth in the flavor of the mole madre yet the new mole also holds its own. The way the moles differ yet interact together with your taste buds was a culinary adventure. The dish came with a green tortilla with a leaf fused to it.

Course 6: The desserts were fantastic! Mango granite, vanilla. Anise infladita, chocolate, praline.

Pujol was everything I had imagined and more. We went in wide-eyed and eager to be enlightened. I knew it would be an impressive meal, but I didn’t know, though I had hoped, it would impact my thinking about the creativity and depth of Mexican cuisine. As good cuisine should, it opened my taste buds to new flavors and made me curious to learn and taste more. Thankfully, we had a whole weekend of eating to go!

Quick Info:

• If you are taking an Uber to the restaurant, the auto-fill address is wrong, taking you to the old location, so it’s best if you look up the address (Tennyson 133) and enter it manually. They’ve been trying to get Uber to fix it but it’s not happening. Thankfully, the staff at the restaurant next door to their old location are on the lookout for confused patrons trying to get to Pujol and will put you in the right direction and contact the restaurant to confirm you’re on the way. The new location is a 10-15 minute drive away.
• The pairings were perfect but a little much with the multiple courses! Next time I would ask if they could do half pours.
• Pujol Chef Enrique Olvera recently opened Molino el Pujol, a tortilleria with a menu of tacos, in Mexico City. He also has a restaurant called Cosme in New York City and is working on a Los Angeles restaurant. Pujol has been open since 2000.

Pujol Website
Tasting Pricing: I don’t have the exact amount but it’s about $100 USD per person. The pairings are additional.

Quintonil

I’m a little embarrassed to share about this fiasco of a meal but all I can do is accept that it happened and hope I get another opportunity to dine at Quintonil again!

First, our lunch at Quintonil was scheduled for our last day because with other activities planned and the weekend hours, it was the only time we could fit it in. They open at 1 pm and our flight was at 5:30 pm. I admit, this was a bad decision on my part and I recommend not doing this! We worried about the time it would take to get to the airport and get through security and figured it would be best to leave the restaurant around 2 pm, making the meal a little stressful for us and maybe even the wait staff. (Funny thing, when we arrived at the airport, we learned our flight was delayed two hours. Urgh!)

That morning, we both woke up around 4 or 5 am with food poisoning. We popped some stomach pills, hydrated, tried to sleep more, and lay in our hotel room until our check-out at noon. We were both feeling terrible but wanted to dine at Quintonil and knew there would be fees if we canceled our reservation.

The restaurant opened right on time and we were led to our table in the front part of the restaurant. The front part is an intimate space, with low ceilings and constant traffic. They do have a brighter and more open part of the restaurant past this front part.

We ordered a la carte because of our limited timing. We got two appetizers and two entrees. Feeling awful, I ate at most three small bites of each dish. After every course, the wait staff looked confused about why I wasn’t eating my food and asked if I liked it. Boyfriend was feeling better than I was and tried to eat as much of both of our plates as he could!

My taste buds were a little off so I can’t say I got the right flavors of the dishes from my few bites. Much of it tasted extra vibrant and rich. All of that said, here’s what we had!

Our meal started with tortillas, salsa, and black beans.

Before our appetizers, we got a palate cleanser.

Starter: Charred avocado tartare

Starter: Salbut with wild mushrooms confit. This was my favorite dish!

Entrees: Mole with vegetable. We also had the braised oxtail in black recado.

They even brought us a complimentary dessert! Soursop rocks with caramelized white chocolate and pink peppercorn. It was a really cool and tasty dessert.

I ended up apologizing to the hostess before we left, explaining that I was sick and leaving full plates of food had nothing to do with the food or service. The service was very on-point and the plates were beautifully presented. I’m sad I missed the majority of this meal!

Quick Info:

• Quintonil Chef Jorge Vallejo opened Quintonil in 2012 and previously worked at Pujol, mentored by Chef Enrique Olvera.

Quintonil Website
Tasting Pricing: $2050 MXN ($99 USD); $3450 MXN with pairings ($166 USD); a la carte menu available

Pujol or Quintonil?

Because of my skewed experiences, there’s no way I can give you a clear answer about which restaurant you should visit. I know people rave and have criticisms about both restaurants. You will certainly experience incredible service and noteworthy plating and creativity at both restaurants.

I will say that when I’m in Mexico City again, visiting both restaurants will be near the top of my list. There are many, many great restaurants in Mexico City and these two deserve the attention they receive.

If you want more fine dining options, check out Sud777, Nicos, Biko, Rosetta, and Maximo Bistrot. You can find descriptions of them here.

Quick Tips for Both Restaurants

• Make your reservations before your trip. Pujol’s reservations are available about six or seven months in advance (I made ours almost four months in advance) and Quintonil’s reservations are available 60 days prior.
• Both restaurants have lunch and dinner options.
• Arrive early. You never know about traffic in Mexico City. These restaurants have 15-minute tolerance policies for tardiness. Your reservation could be canceled and your credit card could be charged.

Conclusion

We savored dining at Pujol and Quintonil and the opportunity to be there. We live for culinary adventures that challenge our taste buds and introduce us to new chefs, and these two meals will be in our minds for a long time!

P.S. Want more dining experiences? Check out our experience at Nahm in Bangkok, Thailand.

P.P.S. Check out more of my Mexico City posts here:

• Mexico City Travel Guide
• Exploring Teotihuacan in Mexico City
• Museo Frida Kahlo in Mexico City
• Best Things to Do in Mexico City
• Eating and Drinking in Mexico City

Keep up with my travel posts and adventures. You can find me on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, and Bloglovin’. You can also subscribe to the exclusive email list.

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I made plans to visit Museo Frida Kahlo because it’s been noted as a popular place in Mexico City to visit, but leading up to the trip and even the day before our visit, I wasn’t convinced. I heard about the long lines even if you had already bought a ticket. I read accounts saying the place was overrated. I learned from other travelers that the museum didn’t feature a lot of her art.

I hadn’t thought the museum would have an impact on me, and I hadn’t planned to write its own post about it before visiting. But here we are. Read on for more thoughts!

Museo Frida Kahlo Tickets, Lines, and Audio Guides

The museum opened at 10 a.m. on a Sunday and we arrived at 9:45 a.m. to get into an already growing line. There were two lines. On the left is the line for people with tickets and the right is the line for people without tickets. We had bought our 10:30 a.m. entrance tickets online in advance, which is highly recommended unless you want to wait in the ticket-less line for at least two hours. The ticket-less line works as standby, letting people through based on how many who have already bought tickets show up. We saw plenty of people show up, figure out they were out of luck, and leave.

Tickets are $235.40 pesos ($11.50 USD) and you can purchase one for a specific day and time two months in advance. I couldn’t get a credit card to work on their website but a debit card worked fine. Be sure to bring a print out of your ticket.

If you want to take photos with any type of camera (even phones) inside, you’ll pay $30 pesos ($1.47 USD) at the entrance and they’ll give you a special sticker.

They also have audio guides for $75 pesos ($3.66 USD) available at the entrance. They have detailed panels in English and Spanish throughout the museum that gave plenty of information. The audio guide would have provided even more details but I learned a lot at the museum without it.

Frida Kahlo, Artist

I wouldn’t say I was a strong Frida Kahlo admirer. I knew she was a Mexican artist famous for her self-portraits. I knew feminists rallied around her. I knew she married artist Diego Rivera. I knew she had an eclectic, bohemian style.

I didn’t know her life had so much physical pain. She had polio as a child that left one leg shorter and thinner than the other. She was nearly killed in a bus accident at 18 years old. She was impaled through her pelvis and had fractures in her ribs and legs. Her injuries caused her physical and mental pain throughout the rest of her life. She turned to paintings as a way to discover a new passion and she expressed her emotions in her paintings, especially those of wanting to be free from pain and constraints.

Even with her pain, she didn’t seem to care what others thought when it came to what she wore, did, or believed in. She was a fashionista. If you picture Frida Kahlo in your mind, it’s likely similar to how most people picture her. Braids on top of her head, colorful jewelry, long skirts. One exhibit in the museum features her clothing and accessories, highlighting how she honored her culture and made political statements. She decorated her corsets with political symbols. She wore mixed patterns and statement pieces.

La Casa Azul and How She Lived

The museum is La Casa Azul, where Frida was born, grew up, and lived the last 13 years of her life. (She died at 47 years old.)

The museum takes you through room after room. The first two rooms you go through are galleries of her art with a few unfinished pieces. The next rooms are art she collected and photographs taken of her by her photographer father and photographer friends. Throughout the museum you’ll see art she collected or was gifted by artist friends and admirers.

After visiting the museum, I realized that much of the museum’s focus was about how she lived. Her life was considered art and we have come to hold every piece of her life as an inspiration. Can you imagine your life being immortalized by the books on your shelf, the trinkets on your dresser, and the art on your walls?

One of my favorite parts of the museum was the kitchen. This colorful room seemed like a place I’d want to cook with my family and host friends at the table.

It was strange walking around the house, imagining what Frida Kahlo’s life was like and analyzing her every possession. Much of it was left as it was when she died (as they say). Her studio had a mirror used for her self-portraits.

Her ashes are held in the brown toad-shaped urn in her bedroom. No big deal. Read all the description signs carefully and you’ll find interesting details.

Should You Visit Museo Frida Kahlo?

While the museum shows some dark and painful sides of her life, it also omits details to put more focus on the beauty Frida’s life evoked. The museum honors her life, her artistry, the importance she has in Mexico, and her romantic relationship with Diego Rivera (minus the hard times in their relationship and all the affairs both of them had). It perpetuates the “Fridamania” after her death caused by the fascination with her life, the recognition her art has received, and the idealization we’ve held of her as a fighter and a tragic hero.

Visiting the museum was a unique way to get to know Frida Kahlo, and I left feeling very inspired by her life and the art of her life. I can see why she is so dear to Mexico. That said, while the museum made me intrigued by the impact she has had, Boyfriend was indifferent to the museum.

If you’re interested in Frida Kahlo as an artist, have a few hours to spare, and are able to get tickets ahead of time, it’s worth a visit. Maybe it’ll inspire your artistic side or make you re-examine the details of your life.

Near the Frida Kahlo Museum

The museum is in the Coyoacán neighborhood, south of downtown and about a 15-20 minute drive. A few blocks away is the Coyoacán market where you’ll find souvenirs and food stalls. Nearby the market you’ll find the main square with the Coyoacán Cathedral and a line of bustling restaurants. It’s a nice neighborhood to walk around in.

Conclusion

After a 30-minute wait in line, we spent about an hour walking through the museum. It was a perfect, slow morning activity in our bustling weekend in Mexico City and I’m glad we did it!

Museo Frida Kahlo
Entrance fee: $235.40 pesos ($11.50 USD)
Highly recommended to buy tickets online ahead of time
Website: http://www.museofridakahlo.org.mx/

P.S. Did you see my post about another popular Mexico City sight – Teotihuacan?

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I knew very little about Teotihuacan before I got to Mexico City, but I knew it was definitely a sight to see during my trip. First, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, which means it is recognized and protected for having cultural, scientific, or historical significance.

Teotihuacan is the largest pre-Hispanic, Mesoamerican site. While there you’ll likely walk on the Avenue of the Dead, climb Pyramid of the Sun and Pyramid of the Moon, and walk through Temple of Quetzalcoatl. You’ll also see varieties of cactus flora. Read on for more information about getting there, what you’ll see, and where to eat!

Getting to Teotihuacan and Tickets

The bus ride is about an hour one way. It is about 30 miles away but there are at least two bus stops along the way. You could also join a tour company, hire a private driver, or try a taxi.

I used these directions for the bus and it worked out perfectly. Directions abbreviated below:

• We took an Uber to the Autobuses del Norte bus station.
• Find Gate 8 all the way to the left of the building.
• Buy tickets under the Autobuses del Teotihuacan sign. Tickets are $54 one way and it’s easiest to buy a round-trip ticket. You’ll get a ticket with a time for the next bus and your return trip can be anytime during that day.
• The cashier will point you to where to get on the bus, around the corner through gate 8.

Teotihuacan opens at 9 a.m. and closes at 5 p.m. I recommend getting on a bus in the 8 a.m. hour to avoid the crowds and as much heat/sun as possible. We arrived around 9:15 a.m., explored the site for a few hours, ate lunch, explored another part of the site, got on the bus, took a nap, and arrived back in Mexico City around 3:30 p.m. We toured around fairly quickly and spent five hours there, including time for lunch.

Tickets to get into Teotihuacan are $70 pesos per person and you can pay at the gate. There will also be people offering guide services at the entrance.

You could also see Teotihuacan by hot air balloon! The morning we went, we saw several in the sky.

History of Teotihuacan and Walking So Many Steps

This place is huge. If you enter from the main entrance, you’ll immediately feel this. The Avenue of the Dead, the main, wide path to the Pyramid of the Moon feels strangely expansive. I guess that is expected when the Pyramid of the Sun is the third largest pyramid in the world.

The tallest pyramid is Pyramid of the Sun, which has 200 plus steps. You’ll definitely get a work out from all of these steps. When you’re facing Pyramid of the Sun, the second tallest pyramid, Pyramid of the Moon, is to your left. Both give you incredible views of the site and surrounding area. Check out the view on top Pyramid of the Sun:

The history of Teotihuacan is also very interesting. It existed more than a thousand years before the Aztecs arrived in central Mexico. The Aztecs are who gave it the current name Teotihuacan. It’s architecture, specifically, the design and the function of certain buildings show the influences and existence of multiple civilizations at Teotihuacan. Having visited Maya ruins recently, it’s intriguing to know Teotihuacan has a similar architectural style or maybe it was the Mayas that adopted the style.

Now, don’t get Teotihuacan confused with Tenochtitlan. Tenochtitlan was another Mesoamerican civilization and capital of the Mexico people. You can see these ruins in Mexico City’s Zócalo at Templo Mayor.

Currently, researchers and scholars have a few theories about why the civilization collapsed and was abandoned. It could have been invaders, an internal uprising of the poor against the rich, or the effects of a volcano. They’re still excavating the site, so maybe one day they’ll find evidence of its beginnings and endings.

Learn More About Teotihuacan

There are a handful of signs throughout the site and there’s a small museum on site that will tell you more about the site. Many of the artifacts can be found at the National Museum of Anthropology, where you’ll find a whole section dedicated to Teotihuacan. The small museum at Teotihuacan has a replica of the site. Outside the window is Pyramid of the Sun!

Eating Near Teotihuacan

La Gruta
You’ll likely want to eat at the cave restaurant everyone talks about, La Gruta. It’s outside Puerta 5, which is behind Pyramid of the Sun on the right-hand side. You’ll find it by following signs for the museum. Go through the parking lot and the main gate and veer to the left. You’ll see a big sign on a road to the restaurant.

This restaurant is architecturally impressive, as the photos show you. The food was definitely the most disappointing of everything we ate in Mexico City, BUT we did try a local dish – torta with guacamole and topped with fried grasshoppers.

Know that if you eat here, you’ll be making a big trek back to Puerta 2 or 3 to get on the bus.

Other Options
There are also a few restaurants near Puerta 2 that looked promising.

Quick Tips for Your Trip to Teotihuacan

• Wear comfortable shoes and clothing! Some steps are steeper than others. Go at your own pace.
• Don’t forget sunscreen. Bring it with you. As you can see from these photos, there is little to no shade at the site.
• Wear sunglasses. Wear a hat or there are vendors selling hats for a couple of bucks around the site.
• Bring bottled water.

How to Get Back to Mexico City

Exit Puerta 2 or 3 and a bus will come by every 20 minutes. You’ll likely take a nap on the bus, which is perfect to get ready for the rest of your day in Mexico City!

Conclusion

Phew, our trip to Teotihuacan involved long transportation, sunny skies, and lots of wonder. It’s crazy to think about the mechanics that whoever built Teotihuacan employed to make it happen. How long did it take to clear out the land and built each temple and wall piece by piece? The site has withstood so much and if you can’t tell from the photos and my words so far, THE SITE IS MASSIVE.

Teotihuacan really is a sight to see! From a person that enjoys history and culture, I think it’s worth it for a half-day trip. Plus, you’ll be getting your exercise done so you can eat more tacos in Mexico City later. Win win!

Teotihuacan
Website: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/414

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